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A morning at the Carmel Market

Spices, citrus and the city's loudest conversations. How we like to do the shuk — and slip into Kerem HaTeimanim afterwards.

Spice stall with colourful mounds of spices at the Carmel Market, Tel Aviv

The Carmel Market — the shuk, to everyone in Tel Aviv — runs from Magen David Square down towards the sea. It is where the city does its shopping, and where many of its best cooks find their ingredients.

Go early, go hungry

Mornings are the best time: the stalls are full, the light is soft and the crowds are manageable. Fridays are lively as the city prepares for Shabbat; most stalls close in the afternoon and stay closed on Saturday.

Then, Kerem HaTeimanim

Step off the market into the Yemenite Quarter, Kerem HaTeimanim — a small grid of quiet streets with family-run restaurants, some of them serving the same dishes for generations. Five minutes later, you are at the beach.

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